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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, situated near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.